Monday, April 25, 2011

A rain dog at Easter

I’m staring at my blog for the first time in ages and trying to compose a narrative of all that has happened in the past few months. There’s so much to tell, I’m not sure where to begin so I think I’ll come back to those happenings in subsequent posts.

The rain is pouring outside and some old Isaac Hayes album is playing on my iTunes. It’s odd mixture, his smooth voice against the beating rain. The current downpour signals the start of the rainy season. Great. I arrived in August last year (that’s 8 months in country!) and caught the last third of the rainy season which runs from April/May – October. Last year Guatemala was deluged by the most rain in its recorded history. This leaves a lot to be expected for the upcoming wet months. Travel will be difficult on these muddy, landslide-prone roads. I was returning from the Lake at the beginning of December and got stuck behind a landslide that had just occurred along the road descending into Nebaj. What was unnerving about the whole thing was that it hadn’t rained in several weeks. I’m guessing the soil was so saturated from all the rain of the previous months that eventually hillside crumbled. It will be interesting to see what goes down this rainy season and also how the constant rain will affect my work as I’ve noticed that Guatemalans aren’t exactly excited about doing work when there’s even a light drizzle.

Last week was Semana Santa (Holy Week) which is the country’s largest holiday outside of Christmas. The schools that weren’t already closed because of the lengthy teacher strike, shut down for the week (as did most businesses) and it was nice to see the streets filled with people. It was a festive time and Nebaj was filled with carnival booths, street vendors, a couple of rickety ferris wheels and of course plenty of bolos (drunks). The strangest thing I saw was an effigy (of who I have no idea) hanging in the central park in front of the Catholic Church. I spent most of the week leading up to Easter in Nebaj by myself, taking a break. I lounged around, worked out, read, watched a bunch of The Wire and wandered the muddy streets. I’ve got to admit it was good to have some alone time. Sometimes living with 5 siblings up in Salquil Grande can be trying and I’d spent a lot of time with Peace Corps volunteers in the past month so it just felt nice (and a bit lonely), to take a break from everything. That being said I did have a wonderful wine filled night with other volunteers at Passover Seder on Wednesday night. I hadn’t seen my good friend Noor in a long time so it was great to spend time with her and of course our terrific host Nicole.

Most of the major U.S. holidays have passed since I’ve been in country. Thanksgiving and New Year’s were celebrated in grand fashion with other volunteers and that was nice. It’s great to get together in big groups for such celebrations because while I come from a small family, it’s nice to experience that same sort of camaraderie. Christmas was a small event. I spent it with my two dear Dutch girls who had just arrived for their two month volunteer stint in Nebaj. I had planned on getting together with other volunteers for Xmas but I decided to spend it in a small setting, getting to know my new European friends. While I miss everyone back home, in regards to Christmas and Easter, it has felt nice to take a break from the usual madness that comes with holidays here in Guatemala and especially in the U.S. It may not seem preferable to hunting for eggs or microwaving Peeps but spending a quiet couple of lonely days was a nice change.

Monday, January 31, 2011

Overdue Pics

It has been far too long since I put some pictures up so here are some recapping the events of the past several months. Some are from training and some are at my site.


With my host brother back during training.



Giving a capacitation (presentation).



Shaking hands with the U.S. Ambassador to Guatemala.



With Justin one of my good friends.



View from my room when the weather is nice.



View from my room when the weather is not so nice. (most evenings)



View of Salquil Grande from the hills.



Group of friends who came up to Nebaj for Thanksgiving and we did a hike.



With my dear Dutch friends who threw a birthday dinner for me.



My carrots!



Out on the job



Giving wine making a shot.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Huehue and Prostitutes (not to create an association between the two)

Anyone notice the earthquake count has gone up? They aren’t as frequent up here as where I was living during training but the other morning we had quite the shake. It’s been a while (a month!)and I’ve got plenty of material to update the blog with, especially about my travels and I promise more soon but here’s a little for now.

Last week my business took me to Huehuetenango, on a mission to buy seeds because they cost less there. Huehuetenango is the capital of the department of…Huehuetenango. The department has some of the tallest mountains in the country, the Cuchumantanes range. My site is located in the eastern edge of the mountain range which extends into western Quiché. Anyways, for some reason I had it in my mind that Huehue (“way-way”) sat on relatively flat terrain with a gigantic wall of mountains looming in the background. In this way it resembles Denver. And while the later is true the former certainly is not. Huehue is as hilly a city as I’ve ever visited; kind of like San Francisco. There you go, it’s a cross between Denver and San Fran, only a lot smaller. The trip to Huehue was very short but I was able to grab lunch with my good buddy Frank whose site is located 20 minutes from the city and that was a pleasure.

I suppose the highlight of the trip was on the way back I was waiting to catch the last bus to Nebaj from Sacapulas when I was propositioned. Standing there on the side of the road waiting for the bus to arrive a group of whoreishly (?) dressed women sitting nearby tore me apart yelling their offers to me. I just shook my head, gave a laugh to amuse them, wore a grin and focused on the road. They were nice enough to promise me a “buen precio” and the whole thing was fairly flattering although I guess it’s just business to them. This was the second time I’ve been propositioned in my life. The first was in Costa Rica where prostitution is legal. I remember trying to watch the UNC-Duke game in a sleazy ex-pat bar crawling with prostitutes (it was the only place that showed college basketball) when a woman took a seat next to me. I kindly turned her down and made an apologetic expression to who I thought was her Madame standing on the other side of the bar. I felt bad turning her down because it must feel even more degrading to be rejected on top of selling your body. Maybe that’s not the case. It’s a conscious decision she’s made and who am I to judge her profession? I mean at least due to the legality there aren’t any pimps. Still it’s a sad (if not awkward) encounter. Maybe I’ve seen too many movies with the “hooker with a heart of gold” theme in them: Pretty Woman, Trading Places, Lonesome Dove, Taxi Driver, L.A. Confidential, Risky Business, Leaving Las Vegas, and Les Misérables. It’s a theme I always find moving.

Anyways it’s not exactly a pleasant topic to discuss but the whole thing is just an interesting experience that one may run into traveling abroad (or in counties in Nevada with populations less than 100,000). It’s something that makes you stop and think and it’s definitely worth a thought or two so I felt like mentioning it.

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Work

I want rain. There I said it. Three months ago I probably could never have imagined saying those words but I’m a changed man. No I’m not; I’m just a man who cares dearly about his precious carrots that have sprouted in his garden. A few days after I arrived at site I made a bed and planted carrots and broccoli. The soil was clay so I double dug the bed in order to loosen the soil up, meaning with the help of my two youngest brothers I dug a deep trench then pushed the soil I had just dug back in the trench and built up the elevated garden bed. I also made check dams to absorb water in case it rained. It took us one afternoon and by the end of it my brothers wanted to kill me. My host father wore a confused face that day. I explained to him that it was an odd technique but I was just experimenting.

The next day I helped him make his own bed, we made six his way, without digging in the soil. Afterwards he said to me “Look today we made six beds my way and it took you an afternoon just to make one your way. Whose way is better, yours or mine?” All I could say was we’ll see, to which he laughed. For a second there I felt like the guy who comes in following the textbook only to quickly learn that that’s not how it works in the field. Fast forward a couple weeks. My host father comes up to me: “Your carrots have sprouted, mine haven’t.” I wanted to do a fist pump right there but I just smiled. As of today his carrots have yet to sprout.

Ahh yes the work has begun. It took a while due to several meetings where none of the group leaders showed up and my organization changing things but I have started working in several family gardens in three communities. So far we’ve planted carrots, swiss chard, beets, and radishes and I’ve given talks on double digging (after my own success) and a couple brief talks about nutrition. I’m mighty busy but all I can say is that it feels great to get my work up and running.

The family situation is getting a bit sticky. It seems my concerns about religious involvement are coming to a head. I won’t go into it but I think they might raise my rent for not going to church with them. It’s kind of funny how illegal that would be in the States. That’s not to say that all is not well with my family situation. They’re building a house for their oldest who has a pretty serious girlfriend he hopes to wed next year. She lives in one of the nearby villages and I met her last night. Carlos and Reina just stood there and talked while her little brothers dragged me off to throw fireworks and eventually watch Bloodsport. It was hilarious. The little kids kept referring to Jean-Claude Van Damme as “El Van Damme,” (The Van Damme). I occasionally lend my family a hand with the house construction and they have me lifting hundreds of cinder blocks which is good exercise but most importantly when I help them out they feed me for free. Little odd jobs like giving the cows water. I guess you can say “feed the cows” but you can’t say “water the cows.” Anyways note to self don’t wear a red shirt next time.

Basketball has been frustrating as of late. They don’t call fouls up here and I now understand why that huge guy I would play basketball with at Covenant in the mornings would always threaten to punch someone because everyone would foul him like crazy because they couldn’t stop him.

The daily grind means I have little time to myself in which to write. I fixed my fakakta bed so there’s not a missing board where my neck rests. At night I’ll throw on an album and listen to it straight through while I cook dinner. It’s sort of like my own little scene from The Big Chill. I try and listen to an album a night, last night it was David Bowie’s "Heroes". I think tonight I’ll put on either Blonde on Blonde or Loaded.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Salquil Grande Hoops

I found some guys who enjoy shooting hoops so I’ve brought my basketball game up here. There’s a muddy court we play streetball on in the foggy evenings. Our own Rucker Park and while I’m not exactly “The Goat” or “Black Jesus”, I can dominate. (I need to get an awesome nickname like those two guys. Sweet Dan Jennings?) As much as I’d love to say it’s more than just the height factor, it mainly is the height factor. What they lack in height the make up for with speed. They’re much quicker than I am. They’re in better shape and they’re used to playing at this altitude. I gotta get in better shape. I’m no Derrick Coleman.

I do love me some streetball. Their version of 21 is a little odd. I’ve played it numerous times and still don’t quite understand it. I’m such a sucker for a game of basketball. The other day I was sick and they called me out to play. See: The Flu Game. Ok so I exaggerate. Anyways apparently there is a somewhat semi-thrown together league or let’s just say a group of teams. Last year my team were the Lakers, this year they’re the Bobcats. That’s right they asked me to name the team. Apparently we’re getting jerseys (!?) made: blue, outlined with white with Los Bobcats printed on the front. We’ll see how those turn out. I’m not exactly sure they’ll resemble the real Bobcats uniforms. We’ve got a game tomorrow night and I’m pretty excited to see how these Nebajenses run the floor. What I learned playing in Sacatepequez is not to assume your height will carry the game. We got trounced a few times. Some of these cats can ball.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Movies with my brothers and sisters

The kids in my family love to watch movies, which is cool with me. No matter how horribly dubbed the film is I think it’s a great way to practice my Spanish, an opportunity which in this Ixil speaking town, is very rare. Also if the film only has Spanish subtitles it can be absolutely hilarious because many times what is being said on screen and what’s appearing as the translation are completely different. The kids mainly get a hold of shitty comedies and action movies like Wayans Brothers films or The Fast and the Furious. But whatever the movie, sitting and watching with them is great. Their eyes full of wonder I find myself laughing with them in their joy even if the movie is terrible. I’d been trying to find a good way to connect with them since I’m busy all day and we don’t get to spend much time together. I figured that laughter is a perfect way. The only movies I brought that I thought might appeal to them are Beverly Hills Cop and The Naked Gun but alas those don’t have Spanish subtitles. When they were looking through my DVD’s they pointed out Wet Hot American Summer because of the colorful disc but I made it clear that that was a definite no. Too adult, plus I don’t think they would get the humor.

It’s often hit or miss with my brothers and sisters. Sometimes I can predict whether they’ll like the movie before we watch it and other times not. Example: I showed them Kick-Ass the other night because with the exception of candy, there is nothing children like better than violent action movies. It was a success. They were enthralled watching little kids kill bad guys and I was pleased by their excitement. Other times I miss the mark. I figured they like dumb, silly comedies so I showed them Zoolander which is about as mindless a comedy as there is and I only got a couple chuckles. Slapstick translates the best. I need to get a hold of some Jim Carrey movies. They loved The Mask.

Anyways last night I had an unexpected success, kind of. I’m a big fan of Eddie Murphy’s 1980’s comedies (48 Hrs., Beverly Hills Cop, Coming to America, etc.). I don’t know what he’s doing now with Norbit and The Adventures of Pluto Nash but his work in the 80s was gold. John, the volunteer I replaced left me some movies that he bought down here including one of my personal favorite Eddie Murphy films: Trading Places. Although the original unedited version is superior, if you had cable growing up you’ve probably seen the edited version on television. This movie is on Comedy Central more times than Law & Order is on USA network. I had the movie and I was dying to watch it and the kids noticed I had a movie they hadn’t seen (it could have been any movie for all they cared) and they begged me to put it on. Again the humor isn’t exactly silly, slapstick type stuff so I warned them that they probably wouldn’t enjoy it but they insisted. Well we put it in and by the end it was just my oldest brother Carlos (19) and I watching it and although it lost its effect on the younger kids, he was getting it. He would crack up and turn to me to point out something funny that had happened. It was perfect. It was great to spend some time with just him. We both have busy schedules and most of the time I watch the movies with the younger ones who are more often around than Carlos. I know he wants to hang out and I want to hang out with him so it’s good that we get the older sibling bonding time. I invited him to shoot hoops once but he couldn’t. Perhaps next time. While the language is definitely a barrier we can both share laughter at funny movies.

On another note, Lauren Marentette, a good friend of mine in high school gave birth to a beautiful baby boy yesterday and I just wanted to note how wonderful that is and that I'm very happy for her.

I’m going to have to start hiding my peanut butter from myself.

The day in Quiché was well needed. Not only was I there to buy household supplies but I was also able to see two other volunteers: Noor and Nicole. It was great to see some familiar faces because I’m totally isolated from my fellow volunteers out in Salquil Grande. We went to the dispensa (supermarket) to stock up on supplies and buy some kitchenware.

With my new oven mitts it’s always Christmas! I mainly nabbed some food stuffs in the dispensa including parmesan cheese which is going to be absolutely bitchin’ on the pasta that is currently cooking on my stove. That pot gets terribly hot so I had to grab some oven mitts and it being the holiday season means festive designs so I’ll be mashing a print of Santa’s bearded face into the hot metal.

After visiting the dispensa we walked through the marketplace and I bought some relatively unnecessary items. When I was in high school my Uncle Rob changed the way I shaved. He gave me mug with a bar of soap and a brush of badger tail for Christmas. It has always been one of my favorite gifts and I definitely prefer the traditional way of mixing the bar of soap in the mug with the brush and then lathering it on my face as opposed to simply spraying the canned shaving cream. Like most people I shave with the common safety razor but after seeing someone selling straight razors I decided to take the whole traditional shaving method a step further. It’s going to be quite the (painful) trial and error process and the more I read about starting to shave with a cut-throat razor (wonderful name, right?) the more I ask myself what the hell I was thinking buying one. It requires a certain skill to shave with one and it apparently takes about 100 shaves (and innumerable cuts) before you get a handle on it. Might as well try to pick something new up while I’m down here. Let the great experiment begin.

The other unnecessary purchase I made in the market was Titanic II (well maybe it was necessary). I was walking by a DVD stand and lo and behold there it was. I had to pull the trigger on it. Had to. My curiosity was piqued after that previous journal entry where I wrote that I had seen it hanging on a DVD stand. Not surprisingly it was god-awful. So bad that it was unintentionally funny. So while it probably isn’t the best $1.25 I’ve ever spent, it was worth it.

I’m still consuming an absurd amount of tortillas but tamales are more popular in Salquil Grande and they’ve become a staple of my diet here. They’ve already worn out their welcome so I usually cook dinner for myself and afterwards (I’m trying to) ration myself a spoonful of the delicious, crunchy peanut butter I picked up in Quiché.